Scott Greenberg
WTOP Wine Contributor
WASHINGTON —聽Americans just don鈥檛 drink enough Champagne, which is why I love this time of year. It gives me an excuse to shout (or write) all about the wonderful versatility that Champagne has to offer.
An American humorist and writer put it best when he said, “Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.” Amen!
The difference between sparkling wines and genuine Champagne is that only wines made in the tiny Champagne region in France — using the strict M茅thode Champenoise聽— can be called Champagne (denoted by the capital 鈥淐鈥� in the name). All other champagne-style wines are referred to as 鈥渟parkling wines.鈥�
Most mid-level priced Champagnes ($25 to $45) are non-vintage or 鈥淣V.” This means that it鈥檚 a blend from several vintages of wines from the same Champagne house. For example, a current NV might be made up of a little of the 2003 vintage mixed in with a little more of the 2004 vintage and topped off with the 2005.
Vintners use this method to achieve uniformity and develop a 鈥渉ouse style鈥� that is consistent from year to year. A 鈥渧intage鈥� champagne is always designated by a specific year on the bottle and is made entirely from grapes harvested from that particular year.
Champagnes are also made from several grape varietals. The most common are chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir. A bottle labeled 鈥渂lanc de blancs鈥� (white from whites) is made entirely from chardonnay. 鈥淏lanc de noirs鈥� (white from reds) denotes that the wine was made from red grape varietals such as pinot meunier or pinot noir. Ros茅 wines are produced with the addition of 鈥渟till鈥� (without bubbles) pinot noir during the process.
Lastly, there are different sugar contents. The styles are classified on the label, so you can determine sweetness. The most popular style of Champagne is classified as 鈥渂rut鈥� and is considered a dry wine, even though it has just a smidge of residual sugar — whereas 鈥渆xtra brut鈥� is totally dry. Champagne labeled 鈥渆xtra dry鈥� is actually a little sweeter than brut, 鈥渄ry鈥� is sweeter than extra dry and demi-sec is sweeter still.
In order to fully appreciate Champagne, it should be served well-chilled in a tall flute-style glass or tulip glass. The shape of the glass and the cold temperature preserves the bubbles and enhances the experience.
One of my favorite Champagnes for the money is the Non-Vintage Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne from Epernay, France. This nicely balanced wine is a wonderful value in non-vintage fine Champagne. The tiny, precise bubbles add a degree of elegance as they deliver lovely notes of apple, pear, citrus and roasted almonds across the entire palate. Toasted hazelnuts are featured on the crisp, balanced finish. $28.
The Non-Vintage Bollinger Special Cuvee is a perennial favorite. Each year, it is blended with 25 percent (or more) reserve wines to achieve balance and consistency. This is the house鈥檚 entry level Cuv茅e and typically features fragrant scents of green apple and buttered toast on the nose, leading to flavors of baked apple, ripe pear, roasted hazelnuts and candied ginger on the palate. The structure is full-bodied and the finish, featuring notes of toasted almonds, is round and full. $50.
If you are interested in very reasonably priced vintage Champagne, try the 2006 Mo毛t & Chandon Brut Grand Vintage Champagne, from France. It offers up scents of roasted nuts and baked bread on the nose. The palate is full-bodied, fresh and vivacious, with flavors of Honey Crisp apple, pear and citrus fruit with a hint of dough. $60.
Ros茅 Champagne is one of my guilty pleasures, and the Non-vintage Billecart-Salmon Brut Ros茅 is a consistent winner. Using a blend of roughly 50 percent chardonnay, 35 percent pinot noir and 15 percent pinot meunier, the delicate pink color is accompanied by lovely scents of sweet cherry, vibrant strawberry and chalky mineral. Bright black cherry, strawberry and red plum fruit flavors offer surprising depth. Mouthwatering mineral-laden acidity mesh with hints of baking spices on the beautiful finish. $80.
If you are looking to celebrate in style 鈥�– and you have a significant budget to do it — the Non-Vintage Krug Grande Cuv茅e is your Champagne. It represents the trademark signature style of Krug, with a combination of intensity and charm. The creamy mouthfeel is layered with flavors of honeysuckle and brioche on the nose and flavors of apple, white peach, orange blossom and baked bread on the palate. The long finish has a slightly creamy feel and adds a level of elegance that has to be tasted to be believed. $130 – $150.
